preparing to SEW.

Once all the amendments on my patterns from the toile fitting had been changed I was now ready to cut out. It was very important to make sure all the grain lines were parallel and that anything that was cut to fold, was on the fold.  Anything that was blocked fused I had to ensure that I drew ( in chalk ) 2cm around the pattern.  Once I had cut out, I had to block fused the appropriate pieces and part fused the back pieces. The pieces that were block fused I then had to put the pattern back on and cut out neatly REMEMBERING ALL NOTCHES. Then it was time for the tapes which went around the arm holes, shoulder seams and roll line.

design DEVELOPMENT.

Toile Fitting.

Today was the day of toile fittings. Initially I wasn't entirely sure what this would be like as I had never done something like this before.  I have been so focused on this project and I feel that my knowledge in regards to pattern cutting and fit has really grown since I have started this project, so I was very excited to see my jacket on a moving body.  It was a very stressful day as I had not yet set my collar in, but it was all ready for the fitting and here is what happened.

There were very few adjustments to be made which I was happy about. The collar and rever needed to be looked at, it was a very awkward shape and angle and they were was too much of a gap so we added a some calico underneath and with a marker drew in a shape which looked better and from that i changed the pattern. The collar around the neck slightly tight so I was to open that by 7mm. I also decided that I wanted the sleeve hem to be tighter in order to create more of an effect with the sleeve, so i decreased the hem circumference by 7 cm.

Toiling.

Now that I have created the pattern's I need to see how the form in fabric, so I am going to make up half the jacket in calico. When cutting out in calico, lay out the pattern pieces and make sure that the grain line is parallel to the warp. So that after the jacket is made we can pin is correctly, I drew I line on the calico where my centre front and centre back would be and then pinned the pattern exactly onto this line, matching the centre fold lines.

Setting the collar in is very challenging but I am pleased with how it looks apart from the revere i sewed as a curve rather than straight lines to create the point.  I need to be aware not to do this when making my full jacket.

The sleeve I set in as one big lantern shape however now that is it sewn in I need to alter it and then make the appropriate changes on the pattern. I don't want to take to much out of it though as I love how big it is and I always wanted the sleeves to be the main feature of the jacket.

creating the PATTERNS.

After tracing out the basic block, first step was to analyse the length of our jacket. Whether the hemline finished above and below the knee line ( mine finishes above ). Then I had to determine the silhouette of the garment. How it differs from the basic block. I extended my hem by 8cm and out by 5 cm and then by overlapping my patterns I created a point which is just below the waistline where the jacket comes in creating a nice shape on the waistline. I also had to determine the button wrap by working out the size of the button I envisage having on my jacket, and extending that from the centre front line. I have a visible dart that comes in from the shoulder and goes throughout the bust point. I had to change this from the original bust point dart. I then had to create the collar and revere.  From looking at our final design we had to plot in the style line, and then accurately plot in the neckline and collar. To do this you work on the front piece and use this is a plan and when you are confident that the patterns are correct you then trace out each piece of the collar and front. I found this part really tricky at first but after being shown for the second time i felt confident to do it and am pleased with what I had done.  The next thing I had to do what to decide where my flap pockets were going to sit, and how the shape and proportion relate to the other style features. At first they were not large enough and it's very important that they are positioned correctly, i.e. not in the centre of the jacket.

lets get MAKING.

This project is really the first time I have made sure I know exactly what I am doing, when it comes to making patterns, and how and why I do every step. Pattern cutting is not my favourite aspect of the course and I find it very hard, so I have got myself a book and expect many sleepless night but I am ready to make my jacket!

Final Design and Final Spec.

Final Collections.

FABRIC resourcing.

As I am designing for spring/summer I need to source a fabric that is light in weight, but still appropriate for a tailored jacket. Wool is the desired fabric I am looking for, and my colour palette has led me to a royal blue.

a few DESIGN PAGES

looking at my research as a hole.

From my research I understand that covering

and hiding ones face is a key theme throughout

my imagery. I need to find a way to convey these

ideas and themes through my designs, keeping to

tailored look. I can incorporate hidden pockets

and hidden buttons but I feel that it quite obvious.

I thought that if I had really exaggerated features

it could be as if the jacket is working to hide the

body and take attention away from the person wearing

it with oversized collars and sleeves etc.

Concept and Mood Boards.

Tailoring Project, Title : incognito.

My most recent project is tailoring and after being given a few titles I chose, incognito. I'm going forward with this by looking at concealed identities, and people hiding themselves in every aspect. Here are a few images to get me started ( concept boards coming soon)