From my concept of x-rays, I envisage lots of defined lines, lots of layers and draping and i think some pleating as well.  The x-rays of clothes show that a lot of folds and lines create amazing, intricate detail.  I really want my concepts to be clear through my designs, the idea of peeling back layers to reveal inner beauty. Having a lot of layers and draping to represent that it is difficult to peel back the layers.  I am also thinking that transparent materials alongside layering would work beautifully, showing through to underwear,to epitomise the idea that an x-ray see's beyond clothes and skin.

Fold and Lines.

Heavy pleating and folds.

serious pleating

draping

draping, pleating, folding.

Concept.

 Initial idea is x-rays. Not only do they provide a
fascinating way to look into the human body,
but they create beautiful, intricate detailed images,
 that will make good inspiration for this
innovation project. 

To start with I am going to look at looking inside inner
 beauty and peeling back layers. Everythingin this
 world has layers and elements of whatever it
is that we don't know about, x-rays allow us
 to see these hidden things.

I need to create a colour palette that works
 well together and presents an x-ray
without looking too cold and dark.
I think a shade of greys and silvers
 would present the science part of it,
 and a shade of blue to compliment the grey.

Nick Veasy in a photographer I came
across who uses x-rays as a means
 of photography. photographing
anything from a pair of knickers to a barbie doll.

Diane Covert's work gave some amazing detail
for design inspiration and her concepts
 gave me a lot to think about.

Diane Covert : Inside Terrorism | X-Ray Project

Inside Terrorism is a photography exhibit which uses actual x-rays and CT scans from the two largest hospitals in Jerusalem to explore the most important social issue of our time : the effects of terrorism on a civilian population.  Not only does this subject mean a lot to me, but the photography is beautiful, because of how real it is, and I think it is a could source of inspiration for my project.

I was eating pizza.

I was riding the bus.

Nail in neck.

Chest X-ray, two views of same individual.

Smashed hand.

Nick Veasey.

During my research I came across Nick Veasey who is an x-ray photographer.  I was extremely inspired by what he said about his work and I felt it to be very true to the direction I want to take this project.

“We live in a world obsessed with image.  What we look like, what our clothes look like, houses, cars, etc…I like to counter this obsession with superficial appearance by using x-rays to strip back the layers and show what it is like under the surface.  Often the integral beauty adds intrigue to the familiar.  We all make assumptions based on the external visual aspects of what surrounds us and we are attracted to people and forms that are aesthetically pleasing.   I like to challenge this automatic way that we react to just physical appearance by highlighting the, often surprising inner beauty”.

I love the intricate detail that comes from the x-ray and there are so many different textures, shapes and lines that could inspire my designs.

Time to start thinking of my concept.

The brief indicates that throughout the project we need to explore the idea of language and communication.  Interaction through touch, sound, movement and dialogue should also be explored.  One of my initial ideas, that came straight to my mind when we were first briefed, was to look at ultrasounds and x-rays.  


X-rays allow us to right into the body, and they create some really beautiful silhouettes.  During my research I learnt that X-rays were discovered completely by accident which bodes well for this project as I feel its all experimental with respect to the cutting process.  Looking at the photos below I think it's possible to get interesting outlines for design ideas.

Rei Kawakubo.

Rei Kawakubo is the founder of Commes des Garcons, which specialise in 'anti-fashion, austere, sometimes deconstructed garments, sometimes lacking a sleeve or other component'. After the exhibition I really fell in love with her work and her creations, she was never trained as a fashion designer so all her visions are done verbally via her talking to the pattern makers.

Autumn/Winter 1983-84

Spring/Summer 1997

Fall RTW 2009

Fall RTW 2009

LOVE this, (spring RTW 2010)

'A-POC making', Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara.

What is 'a-poc’?

Over length sweaters, dresses off the roll - 'a-poc' is based upon Miyake's first design concept, a piece of cloth, is a new and unique suggestion for everyday life, which goes far beyond the boundaries of fashion. It is made using an industrial knitting or weaving machine programmed by a computer. This process creates continuous tubes of fabric within which lie both shape and pattern. The customer cuts sleeves and skirts exactly to the length he wants. It is an idea that totally overthrows the existing standards for making clothes. A-poc' is made in a sequence in which thread literally goes into a machine and re-emerges as a piece of clothing, an accessory, or even a chair. This interactive new method not only reduces leftover fabric but also permits the wearers to participate in the final step of the design of their clothing: they determine the final shape of the product. Mass production and custom-made clothing, seemingly opposing ideas, become compatible with each other through the wizardry of technology and the fire of imagination.

Gold and burgundy finely pleated cotton blend, 1990

Issey Miyake is famously known for his pleats, he uses pleats both as an aesthetic complexity and a means for movement within his designs.

Source:Issey Miyake: Dress (2001.711) | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The Metropolitan Museum of Art

What I love about a-poc is that is breaks the most fundamental rule of fashion, cut and sew.  This method requires no sewing, sounds perfect to me!

Future Beauty, 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican.

Today I went to Barbican for the 30 Years of Japanese Fashion exhibition.  It was an amazing exhibition, fascinating, motivating and the perfect source of inspiration for my innovation design project.  It surveyed japanese fashion from the 80's up until today.

This is the first exhibition to show avant-garde Japanese fashion, transforming the world of couture in the late 20th century ' visionaries such as Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto redefined the very basis of fashion'.  They turned fashion into art by using fashion as a form of expression and challenging western notions of beauty.

Unfolding by Janek Schaefer,
 The composition is made from 4 x 44 minute
shifting loops spread out across four pairs of speakers
 in the space, subtely shifting the sound textures
 and tones all around the different levels and zones
of the show. It forms an underscore for
the work on display, weaving them together
and suspending them in a sense of unfolding wonder. 

Rei Kawakubo/Commes des Garcons Spring/Summer 2007,
reminiscent of the Japanese flag.

Jun Takahashi/Underver, Spring/Summer 2007,
 this dress is made up of hundreds of skull faces!

 Issey Miyake, A-POC ( a piece of cloth )