After tracing out the basic block, first step was to analyse the length of our jacket. Whether the hemline finished above and below the knee line ( mine finishes above ). Then I had to determine the silhouette of the garment. How it differs from the basic block. I extended my hem by 8cm and out by 5 cm and then by overlapping my patterns I created a point which is just below the waistline where the jacket comes in creating a nice shape on the waistline. I also had to determine the button wrap by working out the size of the button I envisage having on my jacket, and extending that from the centre front line. I have a visible dart that comes in from the shoulder and goes throughout the bust point. I had to change this from the original bust point dart. I then had to create the collar and revere. From looking at our final design we had to plot in the style line, and then accurately plot in the neckline and collar. To do this you work on the front piece and use this is a plan and when you are confident that the patterns are correct you then trace out each piece of the collar and front. I found this part really tricky at first but after being shown for the second time i felt confident to do it and am pleased with what I had done. The next thing I had to do what to decide where my flap pockets were going to sit, and how the shape and proportion relate to the other style features. At first they were not large enough and it's very important that they are positioned correctly, i.e. not in the centre of the jacket.
Thursday, 12 May 2011
creating the PATTERNS.
After tracing out the basic block, first step was to analyse the length of our jacket. Whether the hemline finished above and below the knee line ( mine finishes above ). Then I had to determine the silhouette of the garment. How it differs from the basic block. I extended my hem by 8cm and out by 5 cm and then by overlapping my patterns I created a point which is just below the waistline where the jacket comes in creating a nice shape on the waistline. I also had to determine the button wrap by working out the size of the button I envisage having on my jacket, and extending that from the centre front line. I have a visible dart that comes in from the shoulder and goes throughout the bust point. I had to change this from the original bust point dart. I then had to create the collar and revere. From looking at our final design we had to plot in the style line, and then accurately plot in the neckline and collar. To do this you work on the front piece and use this is a plan and when you are confident that the patterns are correct you then trace out each piece of the collar and front. I found this part really tricky at first but after being shown for the second time i felt confident to do it and am pleased with what I had done. The next thing I had to do what to decide where my flap pockets were going to sit, and how the shape and proportion relate to the other style features. At first they were not large enough and it's very important that they are positioned correctly, i.e. not in the centre of the jacket.
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